Interview with D La Repubblica: Celebrating the Beauty of Black Women in Photography
April 23, 2023D La Repubblica, an Italian newspaper, recently had a chat with me about my photography and how it highlights the beauty of Black women in a Beauty feature. The full article can be found on their website (LINK). However, since it’s behind a paywall and in Italian, I’m posting the English version here, along with some of the featured photos.
Chances are, if you’re reading this, you already know my work as a photographer. Photography has been the first medium that enabled me to connect with my humanity and discover beauty in the world. Black women have always been at the core of my artistic journey, and I’m glad I could share that in this interview.
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Ed Maximus: “My work is a tribute to Black Beauty”
The photographer and multidisciplinary artist of Haitian origin focuses his work on the representation of black women: “Mine is a heartfelt tribute to their indomitable spirit, their bearing, their beauty that transcends time and space.”
by Giulia Mattioli
He paints, experiments with sculpture, creates works through artificial intelligence, and, above all, takes photographs. Ed Maximus, a New Yorker by adoption but of Haitian origin, is precisely what is defined as a multidisciplinary artist. There are various forms through which he expresses creativity, but there is one main subject of his artistic investigation: black women. The bodies and faces of black women, for too long only partially and stereotypically represented, are at the center of the photographer and visual artist’s journey: almost completely absent in the world of art, and subject to censorship, politicization, and regulation in the real world, they are portrayed by him in all their glory, beauty, and diversity. After all, “They are the pillars of my existence,” he explains. “Through my work, I want to celebrate and honor them.” His fashion and beauty shots are powerful, proud, elegant portraits; his subjects are capable of telling their own story and self-determining.
Born and raised in Haiti, “where I cultivated a passion for art and culture,” Ed Maximus moved with his family to the USA (Florida) at thirteen. While attending college, where he studied mechanical engineering, he approached the world of photography: “It helped me manage the stress of the academic program.” After graduating, he pursued a career as a software engineer but realized that the desire to follow his artistic inclination was stronger, so he moved to New York (“I wanted to immerse myself in an environment that inspired me”). Since then, photography, which he integrates with AI - artificial intelligence in some projects, has been at the center of his creative process.
From a photographic point of view, what’s your main interest? What do you look for in a shooting session?
My main interest in photography lies in capturing the essence of people and subjects that captivate my imagination. I approach each shoot as a conversation, with my camera serving as the facilitator. Occasionally, the initial conversation ignites the desire to uncover more about the person (or subject), inspiring me to adopt them as a muse and endeavor to capture all their dimensions.
What are your visual references and inspirations?
I draw inspiration primarily from the world around me, exploring a wide array of visual references. For immediate application to portrait or fashion photography, I often turn to the paintings of great artists like Robert Campin, Antonis Mor, and Jacometto Veneziano. Their exceptional portraiture bestows an air of nobility upon the sitter, evoking a sense of grand importance – a quality I frequently strive to emulate in my work. In terms of photographers, I appreciate the mastery of Erwin Blumenfeld, Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Hans Feurer, Txema Yeste, Koto Bolofo, Sarah Moon and many other gifted image makers, whose work may have inevitably shaped my own vision.
Your representation of women is very powerful. Can you make a comment?
Thank you. That stems from a genuine admiration for the strength and grace they embody. The influence of many extraordinary women has been pivotal in my life, and I want my work to celebrate and honor them; particularly Black women, who often don’t receive the recognition they deserve.
According to you, what is beauty (and in particular female beauty)?
In my opinion, beauty is an intricate and diverse concept that defies simple definitions. When it comes to “female beauty”, it’s the fusion of physical allure and various inner qualities, such as courage, compassion, intelligence, and empathy, that truly make a woman beautiful. Each woman’s unique combination of these elements creates an authentic and mesmerizing beauty that is entirely her own.
Photography can be a powerful tool in shaping the narrative around female representation, diverse beauty, and inclusivity. Can you elaborate?
Photography plays a pivotal role in shaping our perception of the world, and this grants photographers, editors, publications, and everyone involved in a narrative’s lifecycle significant responsibility in determining the messages they convey. We’ve witnessed numerous instances where editorial images, created without malicious intent, have perpetuated harmful stereotypes towards women. Furthermore, we have seen how beauty photography can push societal beauty standards to unrealistic levels. As such, I believe it’s always crucial for us to take a step back and consider the potential impact of our work.
Your subjects are mainly black women. Can you tell us why?
It’s a conscious decision. I chose to immortalize Black women through my lens because they are the very essence of my being and the pillars of my existence. My work is a heartfelt homage to their indomitable spirit, their alluring beauty, and their graceful poise that transcends time and space.
Black bodies have always been underrepresented or drawn through stereotypes. Today, thanks to mainly black artists, things are changing. Or are they not? What do you think?
Measuring change while navigating through it can be a complex endeavor. We certainly saw a surge in the number of Black photographers taking the reins to craft their own unique narratives over the past few years, signaling a shift in representation. But this year particularly, we are already seeing a reversion to the old ways. It started to look like proper representation and inclusivity are no longer the hot trend… I believe more needs to be done for sustained, deep-rooted change to occur in the photography and fashion industry.
Is there a woman (a celebrity, a model, an artist, a politician or whatever) you would like to portray and why?
There’s a list of a select few individuals I would love to photograph or create something that embodies their spirit. Lupita Nyong’o has been on top of that list for a while. I was captivated by her even before her first film feature was released. I’ve often joked about being her first fan… FKA Twigs is another extraordinary being I can’t believe I share the same world with. As a testament to my admiration, I have attended four of her concerts already. Collaborating with her would be a dream come true… Lastly, there’s Tracee Ellis Ross, the quintessence of womanhood. I love how she presents herself and would absolutely love the opportunity to follow her around with my camera for a day in her life.
What are the new challenges of being a visual artist in the age of social media?
As a visual artist, I feel like cultivating a captivating online persona has become more important than the quality of the creative work itself. For those of us who are reserved and prefer to invest our energy in our work, this can be a dauting challenge.
Furthermore, popular platforms like Instagram employ algorithms that favor content likely to go viral, effectively throttling engagement for others. This dynamic forces artists to produce work that appeals to these algorithms, which often jeopardizes our artistic integrity. Striking a balance between remaining true to one’s vision and adapting to the rapidly evolving world of social media smees to be the key to thriving in today’s digital landscape.
